Chicken Liver & Caper Crostini

There is an Italian cuisine for every season. The fact that the country has its hat in snowy Switzerland and its toes in Tunisia means that moving through its regions you can find a cuisine suited to any and every climate. Here in mild Mediterranean Sardinia, though many winter foods are some of my favourites (artichokes! Slow cooked beans!) there is no denying that this is not Sardinia’s identifying season. Sardinian food seems much more suited to summer.

Tuscany, instead, a little further in and up, seems intrinsically associated with autumn (this may have much to do with truffles and chestnuts).

In this vein, as autumn moves into winter, I started flicking through my copy of Nigella’s How to Eat, and found a recipe for Tuscan Chicken Liver Crostini. I’m not sure if anyone buys chicken livers anymore, which is sad, because if we kill chickens to eat their plump breasts and juicy thighs (which we continue to do in great quantities), then we should also be eating their other bits, as is only decent and respectful. They are also cheap and nutritious, not to mention delicious. I found some chicken livers at my local butchers and bought them to make this, which apart from the livers contains many of my favourite things; capers, anchovies, and wine. It sounded suitably deep and dark and woody and wintery, like an evening lost in a Tuscan chestnut forest.

The idea of a coarse pate on toasted bread (with some sweet wine and shallot in there) all sounds reassuringly familiar (and undeniably French), but what makes this recipe firmly Italian (and a little bit genius) are the anchovies, yes, but most of all the capers. Their inimitable green, salty piquancy works so well with the sweet richness of the liver, so much so that I scattered an extra few on top.

This is nicely refined and good for a little Christmas aperitivo, maybe, but I also like the idea of tossing it through thick egg pasta (pappardelle or tagliatelle would be good) or slathering it on real, blackened bruschetta, cooked over the fire. Do as you see fit.

I deviated a bit based on what I had, but feel free to experiment. Nigella adds tomato puree. I didn’t have any, so used a bit of balsamic for acidity and depth.

Makes enough for 4 bruschetta with half a tub leftover for pasta for two

200g Chicken livers (remove any white or stringy parts with a sharp knife, so you have just the plump purple bits remaining)

A glass of sherry or vin santo (I used aged Vernaccia)

A half teaspoon of capers

3 anchovy fillets

A walnut of butter

Salt and pepper

A splash of balsamic

A sprig of rosemary

1 shallot or small onion, finely sliced

1 clove of garlic, finely sliced

1 stick of celery, finely sliced

A little chopped parsley, if you have it

Olive oil

Extra virgin olive oil to drizzle

Extra capers to garnish

Prepare the livers by cutting away any white or gristly or green bits and set aside in a bowl. Submerge them in milk for 10 minutes or so (this tenderises them and neutralises the flavour a little). Discard the milk (or give it to the cat).

Start by sauteing the soffritto (ie the chopped onion, celery and garlic) in a little olive oil with the rosemary. Use a deep saute pan and cook over a medium heat stirring until they are soft and just beginning to colour. Now roughly chop the livers and put them in the pan, perhaps with a little more oil. Cook over a high-ish heat until they are brown outside by just pink and moussey inside. Add the alcohol and balsamic and allow to simmer for a bit, until the liquid reduces nicely (about 10 minutes). Now add the anchovies, the capers and parsley and season well to taste. Finally add the butter. Now blitz for a second in the blender until coarsely chopped but not a smooth baby puree. Chill and then use as you see fit, sprinkled with more fresh parsley, some fresh capers and or a drizzle of olive oil. 

Close your eyes and pretend you’re in Tuscany.